MON - SAT 10AM - 6PM
DOUGLASVILLE (COMING SOON) | ROME: (706) 291-1220 | CALHOUN: (706) 625-1440 | CARTERSVILLE: (770) 383-9890 | HIXSON: (423)-386-5125
BIG MATTRESS SAVINGS EVERY SINGLE DAY!
BIG MATTRESS OUTLET
BUYING GUIDE
WHICH MATTRESSES HELP WITH HOT SLEEPERS?
SLEEPING COOL HELPS THE BODY GET TO SLEEP AND STAY ASLEEP. KELLY EXPLAINS
WHICH PILLOWS HELP WITH SLEEPING HOT?
JIMMY GIVES TIPS ON HOW TO CREATE A COOL NIGHTS SLEEP
SHOULD I ASK FOR MATTRESS RECOMMENDATIONS?
KELLY EXPLAINS WHY IT MAY BE BETTER TO NOT SEEK YOUR FRIEND'S OPINION ON A MATTRESS
CAN I TRUST MATTRESS REVIEWS?
REVIEWS HELP US MAKE BUYING DECISIONS, BUT CAN WE TRUST MATTRESS REVIEWS?
HOW MANY YEARS SHOULD A MATTRESS LAST?
KELLY EXPLAINS HOW LONG YOUR MATTRESS SHOULD LAST
HOW DO I SHOP FOR A MATTRESS?
LEARN HOW TO SHOP FOR A MATTRESS THE RIGHT WAY
#1 MYTH
DO YOU KNOW THE #1 MYTH OF MATTRESS BUYING THAT CAN PREVENT A GOOD NIGHT'S SLEEP?
WHY USE A SLEEP EXPERT
SLEEP EXPERTS GUIDE YOU THROUGH THE PROCESS OF SELECTING THE PERFECT SLEEP SYSTEM FOR YOU!
MATTRESS BUDGETING 101
LEARN HOW MUCH YOU SHOULD SPEND ON THE PURCHASE OF YOUR MATTRESS
IF YOU CAN'T GET COMFORTABLE, YOU WON'T GET QUALITY SLEEP
Simply put: Choose what’s most comfortable, with as much quality as your budget allows.
There are more choices than ever when it comes to selecting a mattress. Memory foam, latex, springs, hybrids, bed-in-a-box, and more… And each of these has a multitude of subcategories and names, making it almost impossible to understand it all!
Let’s simplify.
-
You don’t have to do a ton of research before purchasing. While it’s certainly okay to do a little reading online if that’s your thing, mattresses are particularly difficult to research because reviews are often subjective to personal taste, and supposedly objective consumer product review blogs are often no more than product spokespeople, receiving compensation for positive reviews and links to products. Also keep in mind that, as with almost anything, there is a lot of misinformation online.
-
Find a mattress expert, not a mattress salesperson. An expert will have many years of experience in the industry and can provide a wealth of accurate information. Of course, anyone you deal with would certainly like to make the sale, but a mattress expert who is not paid on commission may be more motivated toward customer satisfaction, while a salesperson will be motivated by commission. You are more likely to find an expert in a store that primarily sells mattress, rather than a big box or furniture store where associates may have little training and limited experience in mattresses and sleep science. Picking a mattress takes a little time anyway, so while your mattress expert may be taking the time to get to know you and your needs, it’s okay to get to know them too. A new mattress is an investment not to be taken lightly, and you need to trust the person you’re buying from.
-
Lie on the beds. Don’t be afraid to cuddle up in your sleeping position and relax for a while. After all, you’re going to sleep on it for years – the only way to know if you’ll like it is to spend some time on it! Your mattress expert can tell you all about quality, price, value, and life expectancy, but ultimately they will rely on YOU to say what’s comfortable. Listen to your body! Do you feel more comfortable the longer you lie there, or do you start to feel a little ache or pain? These are important signs and you need to relay them to your mattress expert, who will know how to direct you to the best solution.
-
Communicate your needs. Do you sleep hot? Do you have back issues? Neck issues? Hands and arms get numb when you sleep? Hip hurts? Restless legs? Snore? A mattress is not going to cure any medical condition, but the right mattress can make a huge difference in your ability to get good rest. Much like your doctor relies on your description of symptoms for an accurate diagnosis, your mattress expert can match you with the right bed only if they completely understand your needs.
-
Brand name doesn’t equate quality. Most major manufacturers make everything from top quality all the way down to super-economical promotional quality, and everything in between. The big name brands, however, spend a ton of money on marketing to be sure that you recognize or even request their brand. Obviously that drives the price of the product up, so keep an open mind to less recognizable brand names that might offer a top quality product at a better value.
-
How to Budget. Once you and your mattress expert have determined what comfort level best suits you, they should show you that comfort level at multiple price points – typically Good, Better, and Best. Weigh the pros and cons of each level to determine what best fits your needs. A lower price point is easy on the pocketbook but may get body impressions in a relatively short time period, while a premium product will be more of an initial investment but can provide many years of support and comfort. To further stretch your budget, ask if any factory closeouts or floor models are available at a discount. A last-year-model mattress or one with a cosmetic blemish or shipping scuff is often sold at 50-70% off but may not carry the factory warranty.
Unless you are the rare person who can literally sleep on anything and not wake up with aches and pains, don’t take your mattress shopping lightly. The right mattress can have you sleeping comfortably for many years, which in some ways is priceless.
-
Simply put: Not necessarily.
“Firmness” is often mistaken for “support”. Many customers with back issues have been told they need a firm mattress, but what they really need is support. Good support has to do with the construction of the mattress and can be found in all levels of firmness. For detailed descriptions of different types of mattresses and the support they offer, go to Mattress Types Explained.
So then. You have a bad back. We agree that support is key, so let’s get back to the question at hand – is firm or soft going to be better for it?
First, we feel your pain. Literally. BMO owner and in-house Mattress Expert Kelly has had severe back issues for her entire life, some since birth. Having experienced extensive back surgery and still dealing with chronic pain, here is what she has to say:
“There is no mattress out there that will cure any back issues. But finding a sleep system that offers the right support and allows you to sleep comfortably plays a key role in how you feel and your ability to function from day to day. It doesn’t matter how nice your mattress is, if you can’t get comfortable on it you won’t sleep well. And chronic pain sufferers know that good sleep is priceless.”
We simply can’t overemphasize the importance of comfort. And comfort is subjective to personal taste – what one person finds too soft, another may think is just right. When mattress shopping, you can rely on the mattress expert assisting you to tell you all about quality, support, and price, but only you can say what’s comfortable. If you like the feel of a firm bed, then by all means stick with that. But if you like it in-between, or even soft, then go that direction.
And it’s okay if you don’t know what you like at first. Listen to your body and try different comfort levels. Once you think you have it narrowed down, spend some time on a mattress and see what your body says about it. Do you start to get a pinch in your back? An ache in your hip? Shoulder pain? Arm/hand going to sleep? Any of those can be signs that you need to move on to another selection. If you’re hurting after a few minutes, imagine what hours will do!
Here are some thoughts to keep in mind. An extra firm mattress may not have enough give to contour to the shape of your body. This will cause pressure points, which cause pain and discomfort and will cause you to toss and turn in your sleep or worse, keep you from sleeping at all. An extra soft mattress may have the opposite effect, causing you to sink into a “puddle” and not giving enough support to keep your spine and neck aligned.
Your size has some to do with choosing an appropriate firmness too. A petite individual may be more comfortable on a softer mattress, simply because their lighter frame doesn’t sink as deeply. A heavier person will logically sink deeper into a mattress, causing them to often find beds with firmer cores to be more comfortable. In any case, to sleep comfortably one must find the right balance of support and comfort.
While this is not an article about adjustable bases, this is an appropriate time to mention that you should try one while shopping just to see if it alleviates any of your pain/pressure points. Many customers find that the change in position does their back and body more good than does the new mattress. Learn more about adjustable bases here.
“What even is a mattress warranty?” We hear this question all the time. Some consumers wonder why they would need a mattress warranty, while others, usually customers who have had a bad experience with a previous purchase, are very interested in the details.
Before discussing warranty specifics, it’s important to understand that all mattresses will sag. The sag in a mattress from where you sleep is called a “body impression”, and some extent of body impression is simply going to happen, no matter how nice the mattress. Whether that impression is covered by warranty, and at what point it’s covered, depends on the warranty.
Additionally, almost all warranties will require the mattress to be free of any stains or tears, and all original tags to still be attached. Few exceptions are made to this policy, so it’s always advisable to purchase a good mattress protector and take that “do not remove” tag seriously! Warranties may also require the mattress to be purchased with an appropriate foundation, and/or be placed on a bed providing adequate supporting structure (usually this means proper center support on the bed or frame).
Associated delivery costs will rarely be covered under any warranty.
There are various types of warranties (or lack thereof), and understanding the differences can be an important part of measuring expectations when purchasing a new mattress. The primary types of warranties are:-
Non-prorated manufacturers warranty
-
Prorated manufacturers warranty
-
Comfort warranty
-
Store warranty
-
No warranty
Non-prorated warranties are typically offered by the manufacturer for a certain period of time, and do not lose value during that time period. For example, a 10-year non-prorated warranty would guarantee you to get a full 10 years of normal use from a mattress without defect. “Defect” is a key word here, as some defects are clear issues while others are subjective to being measured. Body impressions, for instance, must be measured to determine whether the amount of impression is within tolerance and consider normal, or if it is excessive and warrants a claim. For example, some warranties may cover a body impression greater than ¾”, while another may require the impression to be greater than 1 ½” or even more. In any case, if a defect is deemed present at any point during the warrantable period, the manufacturer will offer, at their discretion, either a complete replacement or 100% of the original purchase price toward another mattress. This type of warranty offers the best protection and virtually guarantees many years of use from your mattress, assuming you keep it stain & tear-free and keep the tags on.
Prorated warranties are offered by the manufacturer, again for a certain period of time, but they lose value over time. If a warrantable claim is approved, the value is based on the remaining time left in the warranty. Each manufacturer calculates this a little differently, but in general terms you might expect that if your mattress has a 10-year prorated warranty and you have a warrantable claim 5 years in, you’ll get about 50% of your purchase price toward another mattress. The fine print of the warranty may allow the manufacturer to repair the mattress instead, at their discretion, but rarely do they choose this option.
Comfort warranty offers a trial period during which you can determine whether you like the mattress, and after a certain period of time (usually 30 days) you may exchange it for another model. Often these warranties have lots of fine print that may not be disclosed up front, and consumers may end up frustrated by the terms and hidden fees of the exchange process. Also keep in mind that mattresses offering comfort warranties will always be priced higher to accommodate a percentage of returns that must then be disposed of. Some stores may offer these comfort returns for sale out of the back room, which is okay as long as it is done in accordance with state law and with full disclosure to the customer.
Store warranty is offered by the individual retail store, above and beyond what is offered by the manufacturer. Most commonly this is found in stores that purchase liquidation products from manufacturers, which are often first quality goods but offered at liquidation prices on an all-sales-final basis. In the interest of providing peace of mind to consumers, the store may elect to offer warranty coverage in lieu of the manufacturer coverage that isn’t available. While it is solely at the store’s discretion, usually a store warranty offers much less coverage than the manufacturer’s warranty would have. However, the liquidation prices more than make up for the lack of full warranty, and the partial store warranty gives the consumer some peace of mind that they won’t be stuck with a faulty mattress that is defective from day 1.
No warranty is not as scary as it sounds, because typically it applies to liquidation products that have been purchased at deep discounts directly from the manufacturer, and sold to the public at prices that are usually well below wholesale. You can expect these discounts to be an average of 50-70% off regular retail prices. Basically, you aren’t paying for a warranty. Obviously the big pro here is the savings, but if you’re considering purchasing a no-warranty mattress, look at the reputation and reviews of the store where you’re purchasing. You can be sure that if it isn’t a good value, consumers will post reviews about it.
I have a warranty concern – what do I do?
Your first point of contact should always be the store where you purchased your mattress. Before making the call, have your original sales receipt handy. While many stores keep transaction records, they are not obligated to do so and you should count on needing a copy of your receipt to pursue a claim. You will likely be asked to provide clear pictures of the tags attached to the bed, as well as the defect you’re wishing to claim. If the defect is body impression, you may be instructed on how to obtain proper depth measurements and pictures.
If the retailer where you purchased is no longer open or available to you, fear not. You may call the manufacturer directly (Google will be your friend on finding the customer service phone # if needed). Have your receipt information ready and follow instructions given by the warranty department.
-
MEET XAVIER SPARKS
GET TO KNOW YOUR EXPERTS! MEET SLEEP EXPERT XAVIER SPARKS
MEET BRADY TRULOVE
GET TO KNOW YOUR EXPERTS! MEET SLEEP EXPERT BRADY TRULOVE
MEET KELLY CHARLES
GET TO KNOW YOUR EXPERTS! MEET KELLY CHARLES, FOUNDER AND OWNER OF BMO
MEET THE TEAM THAT TRULY CARES ABOUT YOUR SLEEP
GETTING STARTED
KELLY PROVIDES 3 EASY TIPS WHEN BEGINNING YOUR MATTRESS-SHOPPING JOURNEY
TECHNOLOGY IS DESIGNED TO OPTIMIZE YOUR SLEEP
Memory foam, gel, innerspring, hybrid… you hear these words tossed around in mattress names and descriptions, and marketing often muddies the definition and makes it difficult to understand what’s what. Let’s break it down by the main types of mattresses:
-
Innerspring mattresses
-
Memory foam mattresses
-
Hybrid mattresses
-
Latex mattresses
-
Bed-in-a-box
Innerspring Mattresses -
Innerspring mattresses use metal springs as the foundation for their support. Additional layers of other materials such as memory foam, latex, quilting, and even additional coils are used to achieve specific feels. There are four main types of innersprings used in the construction of mattresses: Pocketed, Bonnell, Offset, and Continuous coils. In years past, all four spring types were used prevalently so it may have been important to understand the differences. However, mattress shopping today is simpler in at least this one area – innerspring mattresses will typically be classified as either “pocketed coil” (aka “Marshall coil”) or “open coil”.
-
Pocketed coil: Individual coils are each encased in fabric, allowing them to move independently of one another and contour to the shape and size of the person lying on them. This type of innerspring is best for proper spinal alignment, support and pressure point relief. Noticeably, pocketed coils also do a great job of eliminating motion transfer between partners. Pocketed coil mattresses are compatible with adjustable bases and typically are found in your premium to mid-range mattresses.
-
Open coil: Technically “open coil” refers to Bonnell design, but because these along with offset and continuous coils are all used in more promotional lines, the conversation surrounding these pieces is usually more about price than quality so in the industry we’ve come to call all three of these types “open coil” because it’s not as important to understand the differences. However, Bonnell coils are typically the lowest price point, having an hourglass shape and attached to a network frame of wires, and because of being tightly bound together they transfer a lot of motion. Continuous coils use a single piece of wire to form all the springs, also leading to lots of motion transfer. Offset coils are hourglass shaped like Bonnell, but hinged together with helical wires. This hinged design allows slightly more ability to contour and less motion transfer than the other open coil types, but still not as supportive or motion-suppressing as pocketed coils.
-
Coil count: Coil count refers simply to how many springs are in an innerspring mattress. For simplicity, queen size is used as the basis. So a “600-coil-count” mattress means the queen size of that mattress has 600 coils. Larger and smaller sizes would have more and less, respectively. Coil count is an important number in determining the quality of the mattress, but only to a point. In very general terms, the higher the coil count, the better the mattress. But there’s more to the equation. The type of coils, their gauge (thickness), and the comfort layers on top of the coils all work together to create not only a specific feel but a level of quality. Typically, the quality of components is a theme that’s carried throughout the mattress, so a mid-range coil count (let’s say 500-700 pocketed coil unit) will likely also be paired with mid-range foams and fibers and only a moderate amount of cooling technology. A premium mattress, however, containing 1000+ coils will also likely have premium foams such as latex and or copper-infused (or similar) memory foam and premium cooling covers. Both mattresses may come with a 10-year warranty, but the lesser mattress warranty may be either prorated or may allow for as much as nearly 2” body impression before considered defective, while the premium mattress warranty is likely non-prorated and may cover as little as 3/4” body impression. (Read more about understanding mattress warranties here.) If a mattress contains microcoils (see below), consider whether these coils are being included in the total coil count as they are not part of the primary structural innerspring unit.
-
Microcoils: Microcoils, or nanocoils, are tiny pocketed coils sometimes used in the top comfort layers of a mattress, and not a part of the structural innerspring. Simply put, steel is more durable than foam. So while cheap polyurethane foams will break down and get lumpy fairly quickly, a thin layer (usually anywhere from 1-3” thick) of microcoils will resist permanent impression and keep the surface of your mattress bouncing back to its original shape year after year. And because they’re pocketed, as discussed above, they can conform to your shape and size, offering great support.
Memory Foam Mattresses -
By definition, “memory foam” is a viscoelastic polyurethane foam. Foam itself is primarily polyurethane, but when certain compounds are added to it, the viscosity (“visco-“) and elasticity (“-elastic) change and the result is what we simply call memory foam. The exact recipe, if you will, can vary greatly from one manufacturer to the next as they try to achieve unique and proprietary feels.
-
In broad terms, memory foam offers unique support by slowly molding to a body’s size and shape, creating even support with no pressure points. Likewise, its resiliency (elasticity) allows it to return to its original shape once the weight is removed. Additionally, because it absorbs impact so well, it transfers almost no motion between partners.
-
Memory foam’s ability to perfectly contour to the body makes it an excellent choice for pressure relief and spinal alignment. It also works very well with an adjustable base, which allows for an extremely customizable sleep system. However, its contouring ability can create a stuck-in-place feeling that is comforting for some consumers but less pleasant for others.
-
The same viscosity that allows memory foam to offer great support also means it retains heat. Over the years, manufacturers have become very sensitive to the consumer demand for cooler sleeping mattresses and have answered this call with recipe changes that result in a product much more capable of absorbing and dissipating body heat.
-
To that end, the most common (and most economical) additive is gel. Gel acts as a phase-change material to absorb heat and actively transition it to cool. It’s efficient to a point, but isn’t able to convert temperature as quickly as your body sheds it. By itself it’s better than nothing, but may still sleep a bit warmer than an innerspring mattress. Copper is another additive that is very effective in conducting heat away from the body. Additionally, some memory foams are formulated to be more breathable (open-cell), allowing for air flow throughout the mattress. Cooling fabrics can be used for mattress covers, creating a cool-to-the-touch feel. Many top quality mattresses incorporate multiple, or even all, of the above technology to create a mattress that sleeps comfortably cool.
-
As with any product, memory foam mattresses are available in every level of quality and price point. Quality, high-density foam and efficient cooling technology comes with a price tag, but can result in a mattress that is extremely durable and can last for many years. Lower density foams with fewer cooling features will have an attractive price point, and are ideal for guest rooms or kids’ beds that may not require premium quality. However, they may develop body impressions quickly and may also contain additives that cause irritation and unpleasant off-gassing for some consumers. Look for a Certipur-US® or Okeo-Tex® certification at any price point to minimize such concerns.
Hybrid Mattresses
Hybrid mattresses utilize an innerspring support system, with a substantial amount of foam as a comfort layer. This hybrid construction utilizes the best of both worlds, and has become a popular choice for comfort and quality with many consumers. Most hybrids use a pocketed coil innerspring, but a wide variety of comfort layers on top can be used to achieve almost any feel.
Because of the wide variety of ways a hybrid can be constructed, the definition of “hybrid” itself is quite broad. However, our mattress experts feel that a true hybrid is one that maintains a foamy feel on the surface with an evenloft top (rather than quilting with stitched pockets). This distinction has become necessary because the popularity of hybrids has driven some manufacturers to name certain models “hybrids” simply because there is a layer of foam on top of the innerspring unit. It is important to remember that you would never sleep directly on the innerspring unit anyway; a minimal layer of something has to be there just for comfort, and the fact that something happens to be foam does not mean the mattress should be considered hybrid.
Hybrid mattresses may use one or multiple comfort layers to achieve a specific feel. Most commonly used are memory foam and latex. As discussed above, memory foam itself encompasses a broad range of viscoelastic foams, with and without cooling features such as gel and copper. Latex is discussed in depth below. Some hybrids may also incorporate a layer of microcoils.
As with all mattresses, hybrids come in all different levels of comfort and quality. If you like the idea of the support that foam provides but don’t find solid foam mattresses comfortable, a hybrid may be a great solution for you.
Latex Mattresses
Latex foam is similar to memory foam in that it offers contouring, pressure-relieving support, but it has an almost instant response and recovery (the time it takes to return to its original shape after weight is removed), and as a result it has a springy feel. Latex is extremely breathable, which allows it to recover quickly, but also means it retains less heat than memory foam. Some manufacturers will accentuate this by adding gel or cooling covers, resulting in an extremely supportive mattress that doesn’t sleep hot.
Latex comes in different forms. natural or synthetic or a blend of both, and is the result of different manufacturing processes, Dunlop or Talalay. Let’s discuss.
100% natural latex is a byproduct of sap from a Hevea-Brasilienis tree, a.k.a. rubber tree. The milky white liquid is extracted from the tree much in the same way maple syrup is tapped from a maple tree. Excess water is removed from the sap and the thickened latex is then molded into ventilated foam. The resulting product is an extremely durable, buoyant mattress component that also resists dust mites, mold, and mildew. It does result in a pricier mattress, but the longevity, superior support, and organic aspects draw many consumers to make the initial investment.
Synthetic latex is produced from petroleum-based materials to create a foam that feels similar to natural latex. It also results in a durable foam but at a lower price point. While most consumers won’t notice off-gassing from either natural or synthetic latex, if you’re ultra sensitive to chemical smells you may be irritated by some leach from synthetic latex.
Blended latex is just as it sounds – the result of a blend of natural and synthetic latexes, often as low as 30% natural latex. The buoyancy of natural latex can be achieved but at a lower price point. Marketing materials will often call blended latex “natural” or even “all natural”, despite being a blend, so ask questions if this is a concern.
Dunlop latex is a method of pouring the latex into a single mold and heating it, much like baking a cake. Sediment then sinks to the bottom and create a firmer base and an overall dense consistency. The resulting foam will have a supportive and firm feel.
Talalay latex is produced by vacuum-sealing and then flash freezing the latex before heating, which evenly distributes the air throughout the foam and results in a softer, more consistent feel. Its uniformity makes it ideal to slice into layers of varying thickness and use in combination with other layers to achieve a wide range of feels.
It is important to note that people with latex allergies are allergic to the proteins found in natural rubber latex, but latex used in mattresses is washed many times in the manufacturing process, removing most or all of those proteins. Additionally, latex in mattresses is used as a core component and thus does not contact the skin directly, so consumers with a latex allergy typically do not experience a reaction to sleeping on a latex mattress.
Our in-house mattress experts are big fans of latex as a component in mattress construction because of its durability and pressure-relieving comfort, and many insiders in the industry sleep on latex in their personal homes.
Bed-in-a-box
Certain mattresses of all the above types can be rolled and compressed to fit into a box without compromising structure. This allows for easy and more economical shipping both to the retailer and direct to consumer homes. While in years past, roll-packed mattresses were typically imported and of lesser quality, the prevalence of online shopping and direct-to-consumer sales has increased the demand for roll-pack products and most domestic manufacturers have met that demand with a wide array of roll-packed goods at all levels of quality.
In short, if you’re mattress shopping these days, there’s a good chance many of the mattresses you see on the sales floor come in roll-pack form. It isn’t indicative of quality, only convenience and shipping cost, and should only affect your decision to purchase if you are wanting to put it in the trunk of your car.
Having said that – if you do purchase a mattress in a box, know that complete inflation depends on the density of the foam and how long it has been compressed. Many mattresses can be slept on within hours but may take several days to look “pretty”. Rely on your mattress expert to advise you on the specific mattress you’re considering.
-
DO I NEED ACCESSORIES?
ARE ALL OF THESE ACCESSORIES REALLY WORTH IT? KELLLY EXPLAINS.
ABOUT PILLOWS
HOW TO PICK THE PERFECT PILLOW FOR YOUR NEW MATTRESS AND SLEEPING POSITION
IF YOU HAVE THE WRONG PILLOW, NONE OF THIS MATTERS
ADJUSTABLE BASES
DO YOU KNOW HOW ADJUSTABLE BASES OPTIMIZE YOUR SLEEP?
PLATFORM BEDS
THE BENEFITS, STYLE AND SAVINGS OF PLATFORM BED FURNITURE
BOX SPRING
LEARN ABOUT WHETHER OR NOT YOU NEED A BOX SPRING WITH YOUR NEW MATTRESS
SLEEPING POSITION AFFECTS SLEEP
THE BASE AFFECTS SLEEPING POSITION
Without knowing what you have....the answer is "Probably". But there are circumstances in which your old one may be okay.
Customers quite commonly want to use their existing box spring, or foundation, with their new mattress. Whether not this is a good idea is based on several things.
-
How old is your box spring?
-
What kind of bed are you putting it on?
-
Do you wish to keep the manufacturer’s warranty?
How old is your box spring? Generally speaking, if your box spring is more than 5 years old, go ahead and replace it with your new mattress. It’s not that they don’t last longer than that – they absolutely do – but your new mattress will last longer if placed on an appropriate foundation that is not only designed to properly support it, but doesn’t have a several-year head start on wearing out.
What kind of bed are you putting it on? Most traditional beds (by “traditional”, we mean headboard, footboard, side rails, and 3-5 slats running across) require a foundation to support the mattress to keep it from sagging into the spaces. However, if you have a platform bed with either a solid surface or a slat system that is very close together (we recommend less than 2” space between slats”, you may put the mattress directly on the bed with no foundation needed. Additionally, mattresses that are compatible with adjustable bases may use that as a foundation without voiding the mattress warranty.
Do you wish to keep the manufacturer’s warranty? For a number of reasons, many manufacturers do not honor their warranty if a mattress is purchased separately and used on an older foundation. While your old foundation may be just fine, they have no way of knowing whether you’re putting your brand new mattress on a new-ish foundation that’s just fine, or grandma’s 60-year old hand-me-down box spring. Understandably, to guarantee their mattress against defects they want to know it was put on a foundation that was designed for and purchased with it.
If warranty is not a concern and you’d prefer to save the money, check your current foundation for any structural defects, broken pieces, or squeaking. Press firmly on each corner to see if it has any give. If the surface is flat with no dips, and no defects are present, it may be okay to use it with your new mattress.
You might also consider the fact that your bedding is a haven for dust mites and allergens. If you are prone to allergies, or if the thought of microscopic things crawling around in your bedding gives you the creeps, you might sleep more comfortably knowing the old stuff is gone.
-
SHEETS 101
JIMMY EXPLAINS HOW YOUR SLEEP EXPERIENCE MAY BE DETERMINED BY YOUR BEDDING
ABOUT MALOUF
LEARN ABOUT MALOUF PRODUCTS AND THE IMPORTANCE OF QUALITY BEDDING TO ACHIEVE THE BEST NIGHT'S SLEEP
WHY THE WRONG SHEETS WILL ABSOLUTELY RUIN YOUR SLEEP
BASICS & TERMS
Simply put: Choose what’s most comfortable, with as much quality as your budget allows.
There are more choices than ever when it comes to selecting a mattress. Memory foam, latex, springs, hybrids, bed-in-a-box, and more… And each of these has a multitude of subcategories and names, making it almost impossible to understand it all!
Let’s simplify.
-
You don’t have to do a ton of research before purchasing. While it’s certainly okay to do a little reading online if that’s your thing, mattresses are particularly difficult to research because reviews are often subjective to personal taste, and supposedly objective consumer product review blogs are often no more than product spokespeople, receiving compensation for positive reviews and links to products. Also keep in mind that, as with almost anything, there is a lot of misinformation online.
-
Find a mattress expert, not a mattress salesperson. An expert will have many years of experience in the industry and can provide a wealth of accurate information. Of course, anyone you deal with would certainly like to make the sale, but a mattress expert who is not paid on commission may be more motivated toward customer satisfaction, while a salesperson will be motivated by commission. You are more likely to find an expert in a store that primarily sells mattress, rather than a big box or furniture store where associates may have little training and limited experience in mattresses and sleep science. Picking a mattress takes a little time anyway, so while your mattress expert may be taking the time to get to know you and your needs, it’s okay to get to know them too. A new mattress is an investment not to be taken lightly, and you need to trust the person you’re buying from.
-
Lie on the beds. Don’t be afraid to cuddle up in your sleeping position and relax for a while. After all, you’re going to sleep on it for years – the only way to know if you’ll like it is to spend some time on it! Your mattress expert can tell you all about quality, price, value, and life expectancy, but ultimately they will rely on YOU to say what’s comfortable. Listen to your body! Do you feel more comfortable the longer you lie there, or do you start to feel a little ache or pain? These are important signs and you need to relay them to your mattress expert, who will know how to direct you to the best solution.
-
Communicate your needs. Do you sleep hot? Do you have back issues? Neck issues? Hands and arms get numb when you sleep? Hip hurts? Restless legs? Snore? A mattress is not going to cure any medical condition, but the right mattress can make a huge difference in your ability to get good rest. Much like your doctor relies on your description of symptoms for an accurate diagnosis, your mattress expert can match you with the right bed only if they completely understand your needs.
-
Brand name doesn’t equate quality. Most major manufacturers make everything from top quality all the way down to super-economical promotional quality, and everything in between. The big name brands, however, spend a ton of money on marketing to be sure that you recognize or even request their brand. Obviously that drives the price of the product up, so keep an open mind to less recognizable brand names that might offer a top quality product at a better value.
-
How to Budget. Once you and your mattress expert have determined what comfort level best suits you, they should show you that comfort level at multiple price points – typically Good, Better, and Best. Weigh the pros and cons of each level to determine what best fits your needs. A lower price point is easy on the pocketbook but may get body impressions in a relatively short time period, while a premium product will be more of an initial investment but can provide many years of support and comfort. To further stretch your budget, ask if any factory closeouts or floor models are available at a discount. A last-year-model mattress or one with a cosmetic blemish or shipping scuff is often sold at 50-70% off but may not carry the factory warranty.
Unless you are the rare person who can literally sleep on anything and not wake up with aches and pains, don’t take your mattress shopping lightly. The right mattress can have you sleeping comfortably for many years, which in some ways is priceless.
-
Memory foam, gel, innerspring, hybrid… you hear these words tossed around in mattress names and descriptions, and marketing often muddies the definition and makes it difficult to understand what’s what. Let’s break it down by the main types of mattresses:
-
Innerspring mattresses
-
Memory foam mattresses
-
Hybrid mattresses
-
Latex mattresses
-
Bed-in-a-box
Innerspring Mattresses -
Innerspring mattresses use metal springs as the foundation for their support. Additional layers of other materials such as memory foam, latex, quilting, and even additional coils are used to achieve specific feels. There are four main types of innersprings used in the construction of mattresses: Pocketed, Bonnell, Offset, and Continuous coils. In years past, all four spring types were used prevalently so it may have been important to understand the differences. However, mattress shopping today is simpler in at least this one area – innerspring mattresses will typically be classified as either “pocketed coil” (aka “Marshall coil”) or “open coil”.
-
Pocketed coil: Individual coils are each encased in fabric, allowing them to move independently of one another and contour to the shape and size of the person lying on them. This type of innerspring is best for proper spinal alignment, support and pressure point relief. Noticeably, pocketed coils also do a great job of eliminating motion transfer between partners. Pocketed coil mattresses are compatible with adjustable bases and typically are found in your premium to mid-range mattresses.
-
Open coil: Technically “open coil” refers to Bonnell design, but because these along with offset and continuous coils are all used in more promotional lines, the conversation surrounding these pieces is usually more about price than quality so in the industry we’ve come to call all three of these types “open coil” because it’s not as important to understand the differences. However, Bonnell coils are typically the lowest price point, having an hourglass shape and attached to a network frame of wires, and because of being tightly bound together they transfer a lot of motion. Continuous coils use a single piece of wire to form all the springs, also leading to lots of motion transfer. Offset coils are hourglass shaped like Bonnell, but hinged together with helical wires. This hinged design allows slightly more ability to contour and less motion transfer than the other open coil types, but still not as supportive or motion-suppressing as pocketed coils.
-
Coil count: Coil count refers simply to how many springs are in an innerspring mattress. For simplicity, queen size is used as the basis. So a “600-coil-count” mattress means the queen size of that mattress has 600 coils. Larger and smaller sizes would have more and less, respectively. Coil count is an important number in determining the quality of the mattress, but only to a point. In very general terms, the higher the coil count, the better the mattress. But there’s more to the equation. The type of coils, their gauge (thickness), and the comfort layers on top of the coils all work together to create not only a specific feel but a level of quality. Typically, the quality of components is a theme that’s carried throughout the mattress, so a mid-range coil count (let’s say 500-700 pocketed coil unit) will likely also be paired with mid-range foams and fibers and only a moderate amount of cooling technology. A premium mattress, however, containing 1000+ coils will also likely have premium foams such as latex and or copper-infused (or similar) memory foam and premium cooling covers. Both mattresses may come with a 10-year warranty, but the lesser mattress warranty may be either prorated or may allow for as much as nearly 2” body impression before considered defective, while the premium mattress warranty is likely non-prorated and may cover as little as 3/4” body impression. (Read more about understanding mattress warranties here.) If a mattress contains microcoils (see below), consider whether these coils are being included in the total coil count as they are not part of the primary structural innerspring unit.
-
Microcoils: Microcoils, or nanocoils, are tiny pocketed coils sometimes used in the top comfort layers of a mattress, and not a part of the structural innerspring. Simply put, steel is more durable than foam. So while cheap polyurethane foams will break down and get lumpy fairly quickly, a thin layer (usually anywhere from 1-3” thick) of microcoils will resist permanent impression and keep the surface of your mattress bouncing back to its original shape year after year. And because they’re pocketed, as discussed above, they can conform to your shape and size, offering great support.
Memory Foam Mattresses -
By definition, “memory foam” is a viscoelastic polyurethane foam. Foam itself is primarily polyurethane, but when certain compounds are added to it, the viscosity (“visco-“) and elasticity (“-elastic) change and the result is what we simply call memory foam. The exact recipe, if you will, can vary greatly from one manufacturer to the next as they try to achieve unique and proprietary feels.
-
In broad terms, memory foam offers unique support by slowly molding to a body’s size and shape, creating even support with no pressure points. Likewise, its resiliency (elasticity) allows it to return to its original shape once the weight is removed. Additionally, because it absorbs impact so well, it transfers almost no motion between partners.
-
Memory foam’s ability to perfectly contour to the body makes it an excellent choice for pressure relief and spinal alignment. It also works very well with an adjustable base, which allows for an extremely customizable sleep system. However, its contouring ability can create a stuck-in-place feeling that is comforting for some consumers but less pleasant for others.
-
The same viscosity that allows memory foam to offer great support also means it retains heat. Over the years, manufacturers have become very sensitive to the consumer demand for cooler sleeping mattresses and have answered this call with recipe changes that result in a product much more capable of absorbing and dissipating body heat.
-
To that end, the most common (and most economical) additive is gel. Gel acts as a phase-change material to absorb heat and actively transition it to cool. It’s efficient to a point, but isn’t able to convert temperature as quickly as your body sheds it. By itself it’s better than nothing, but may still sleep a bit warmer than an innerspring mattress. Copper is another additive that is very effective in conducting heat away from the body. Additionally, some memory foams are formulated to be more breathable (open-cell), allowing for air flow throughout the mattress. Cooling fabrics can be used for mattress covers, creating a cool-to-the-touch feel. Many top quality mattresses incorporate multiple, or even all, of the above technology to create a mattress that sleeps comfortably cool.
-
As with any product, memory foam mattresses are available in every level of quality and price point. Quality, high-density foam and efficient cooling technology comes with a price tag, but can result in a mattress that is extremely durable and can last for many years. Lower density foams with fewer cooling features will have an attractive price point, and are ideal for guest rooms or kids’ beds that may not require premium quality. However, they may develop body impressions quickly and may also contain additives that cause irritation and unpleasant off-gassing for some consumers. Look for a Certipur-US® or Okeo-Tex® certification at any price point to minimize such concerns.
Hybrid Mattresses
Hybrid mattresses utilize an innerspring support system, with a substantial amount of foam as a comfort layer. This hybrid construction utilizes the best of both worlds, and has become a popular choice for comfort and quality with many consumers. Most hybrids use a pocketed coil innerspring, but a wide variety of comfort layers on top can be used to achieve almost any feel.
Because of the wide variety of ways a hybrid can be constructed, the definition of “hybrid” itself is quite broad. However, our mattress experts feel that a true hybrid is one that maintains a foamy feel on the surface with an evenloft top (rather than quilting with stitched pockets). This distinction has become necessary because the popularity of hybrids has driven some manufacturers to name certain models “hybrids” simply because there is a layer of foam on top of the innerspring unit. It is important to remember that you would never sleep directly on the innerspring unit anyway; a minimal layer of something has to be there just for comfort, and the fact that something happens to be foam does not mean the mattress should be considered hybrid.
Hybrid mattresses may use one or multiple comfort layers to achieve a specific feel. Most commonly used are memory foam and latex. As discussed above, memory foam itself encompasses a broad range of viscoelastic foams, with and without cooling features such as gel and copper. Latex is discussed in depth below. Some hybrids may also incorporate a layer of microcoils.
As with all mattresses, hybrids come in all different levels of comfort and quality. If you like the idea of the support that foam provides but don’t find solid foam mattresses comfortable, a hybrid may be a great solution for you.
Latex Mattresses
Latex foam is similar to memory foam in that it offers contouring, pressure-relieving support, but it has an almost instant response and recovery (the time it takes to return to its original shape after weight is removed), and as a result it has a springy feel. Latex is extremely breathable, which allows it to recover quickly, but also means it retains less heat than memory foam. Some manufacturers will accentuate this by adding gel or cooling covers, resulting in an extremely supportive mattress that doesn’t sleep hot.
Latex comes in different forms. natural or synthetic or a blend of both, and is the result of different manufacturing processes, Dunlop or Talalay. Let’s discuss.
100% natural latex is a byproduct of sap from a Hevea-Brasilienis tree, a.k.a. rubber tree. The milky white liquid is extracted from the tree much in the same way maple syrup is tapped from a maple tree. Excess water is removed from the sap and the thickened latex is then molded into ventilated foam. The resulting product is an extremely durable, buoyant mattress component that also resists dust mites, mold, and mildew. It does result in a pricier mattress, but the longevity, superior support, and organic aspects draw many consumers to make the initial investment.
Synthetic latex is produced from petroleum-based materials to create a foam that feels similar to natural latex. It also results in a durable foam but at a lower price point. While most consumers won’t notice off-gassing from either natural or synthetic latex, if you’re ultra sensitive to chemical smells you may be irritated by some leach from synthetic latex.
Blended latex is just as it sounds – the result of a blend of natural and synthetic latexes, often as low as 30% natural latex. The buoyancy of natural latex can be achieved but at a lower price point. Marketing materials will often call blended latex “natural” or even “all natural”, despite being a blend, so ask questions if this is a concern.
Dunlop latex is a method of pouring the latex into a single mold and heating it, much like baking a cake. Sediment then sinks to the bottom and create a firmer base and an overall dense consistency. The resulting foam will have a supportive and firm feel.
Talalay latex is produced by vacuum-sealing and then flash freezing the latex before heating, which evenly distributes the air throughout the foam and results in a softer, more consistent feel. Its uniformity makes it ideal to slice into layers of varying thickness and use in combination with other layers to achieve a wide range of feels.
It is important to note that people with latex allergies are allergic to the proteins found in natural rubber latex, but latex used in mattresses is washed many times in the manufacturing process, removing most or all of those proteins. Additionally, latex in mattresses is used as a core component and thus does not contact the skin directly, so consumers with a latex allergy typically do not experience a reaction to sleeping on a latex mattress.
Our in-house mattress experts are big fans of latex as a component in mattress construction because of its durability and pressure-relieving comfort, and many insiders in the industry sleep on latex in their personal homes.
Bed-in-a-box
Certain mattresses of all the above types can be rolled and compressed to fit into a box without compromising structure. This allows for easy and more economical shipping both to the retailer and direct to consumer homes. While in years past, roll-packed mattresses were typically imported and of lesser quality, the prevalence of online shopping and direct-to-consumer sales has increased the demand for roll-pack products and most domestic manufacturers have met that demand with a wide array of roll-packed goods at all levels of quality.
In short, if you’re mattress shopping these days, there’s a good chance many of the mattresses you see on the sales floor come in roll-pack form. It isn’t indicative of quality, only convenience and shipping cost, and should only affect your decision to purchase if you are wanting to put it in the trunk of your car.
Having said that – if you do purchase a mattress in a box, know that complete inflation depends on the density of the foam and how long it has been compressed. Many mattresses can be slept on within hours but may take several days to look “pretty”. Rely on your mattress expert to advise you on the specific mattress you’re considering.
-
“What even is a mattress warranty?” We hear this question all the time. Some consumers wonder why they would need a mattress warranty, while others, usually customers who have had a bad experience with a previous purchase, are very interested in the details.
Before discussing warranty specifics, it’s important to understand that all mattresses will sag. The sag in a mattress from where you sleep is called a “body impression”, and some extent of body impression is simply going to happen, no matter how nice the mattress. Whether that impression is covered by warranty, and at what point it’s covered, depends on the warranty.
Additionally, almost all warranties will require the mattress to be free of any stains or tears, and all original tags to still be attached. Few exceptions are made to this policy, so it’s always advisable to purchase a good mattress protector and take that “do not remove” tag seriously! Warranties may also require the mattress to be purchased with an appropriate foundation, and/or be placed on a bed providing adequate supporting structure (usually this means proper center support on the bed or frame).
Associated delivery costs will rarely be covered under any warranty.
There are various types of warranties (or lack thereof), and understanding the differences can be an important part of measuring expectations when purchasing a new mattress. The primary types of warranties are:-
Non-prorated manufacturers warranty
-
Prorated manufacturers warranty
-
Comfort warranty
-
Store warranty
-
No warranty
Non-prorated warranties are typically offered by the manufacturer for a certain period of time, and do not lose value during that time period. For example, a 10-year non-prorated warranty would guarantee you to get a full 10 years of normal use from a mattress without defect. “Defect” is a key word here, as some defects are clear issues while others are subjective to being measured. Body impressions, for instance, must be measured to determine whether the amount of impression is within tolerance and consider normal, or if it is excessive and warrants a claim. For example, some warranties may cover a body impression greater than ¾”, while another may require the impression to be greater than 1 ½” or even more. In any case, if a defect is deemed present at any point during the warrantable period, the manufacturer will offer, at their discretion, either a complete replacement or 100% of the original purchase price toward another mattress. This type of warranty offers the best protection and virtually guarantees many years of use from your mattress, assuming you keep it stain & tear-free and keep the tags on.
Prorated warranties are offered by the manufacturer, again for a certain period of time, but they lose value over time. If a warrantable claim is approved, the value is based on the remaining time left in the warranty. Each manufacturer calculates this a little differently, but in general terms you might expect that if your mattress has a 10-year prorated warranty and you have a warrantable claim 5 years in, you’ll get about 50% of your purchase price toward another mattress. The fine print of the warranty may allow the manufacturer to repair the mattress instead, at their discretion, but rarely do they choose this option.
Comfort warranty offers a trial period during which you can determine whether you like the mattress, and after a certain period of time (usually 30 days) you may exchange it for another model. Often these warranties have lots of fine print that may not be disclosed up front, and consumers may end up frustrated by the terms and hidden fees of the exchange process. Also keep in mind that mattresses offering comfort warranties will always be priced higher to accommodate a percentage of returns that must then be disposed of. Some stores may offer these comfort returns for sale out of the back room, which is okay as long as it is done in accordance with state law and with full disclosure to the customer.
Store warranty is offered by the individual retail store, above and beyond what is offered by the manufacturer. Most commonly this is found in stores that purchase liquidation products from manufacturers, which are often first quality goods but offered at liquidation prices on an all-sales-final basis. In the interest of providing peace of mind to consumers, the store may elect to offer warranty coverage in lieu of the manufacturer coverage that isn’t available. While it is solely at the store’s discretion, usually a store warranty offers much less coverage than the manufacturer’s warranty would have. However, the liquidation prices more than make up for the lack of full warranty, and the partial store warranty gives the consumer some peace of mind that they won’t be stuck with a faulty mattress that is defective from day 1.
No warranty is not as scary as it sounds, because typically it applies to liquidation products that have been purchased at deep discounts directly from the manufacturer, and sold to the public at prices that are usually well below wholesale. You can expect these discounts to be an average of 50-70% off regular retail prices. Basically, you aren’t paying for a warranty. Obviously the big pro here is the savings, but if you’re considering purchasing a no-warranty mattress, look at the reputation and reviews of the store where you’re purchasing. You can be sure that if it isn’t a good value, consumers will post reviews about it.
I have a warranty concern – what do I do?
Your first point of contact should always be the store where you purchased your mattress. Before making the call, have your original sales receipt handy. While many stores keep transaction records, they are not obligated to do so and you should count on needing a copy of your receipt to pursue a claim. You will likely be asked to provide clear pictures of the tags attached to the bed, as well as the defect you’re wishing to claim. If the defect is body impression, you may be instructed on how to obtain proper depth measurements and pictures.
If the retailer where you purchased is no longer open or available to you, fear not. You may call the manufacturer directly (Google will be your friend on finding the customer service phone # if needed). Have your receipt information ready and follow instructions given by the warranty department.
-
Simply put: Not necessarily.
“Firmness” is often mistaken for “support”. Many customers with back issues have been told they need a firm mattress, but what they really need is support. Good support has to do with the construction of the mattress and can be found in all levels of firmness. For detailed descriptions of different types of mattresses and the support they offer, go to Mattress Types Explained.
So then. You have a bad back. We agree that support is key, so let’s get back to the question at hand – is firm or soft going to be better for it?
First, we feel your pain. Literally. BMO owner and in-house Mattress Expert Kelly has had severe back issues for her entire life, some since birth. Having experienced extensive back surgery and still dealing with chronic pain, here is what she has to say:
“There is no mattress out there that will cure any back issues. But finding a sleep system that offers the right support and allows you to sleep comfortably plays a key role in how you feel and your ability to function from day to day. It doesn’t matter how nice your mattress is, if you can’t get comfortable on it you won’t sleep well. And chronic pain sufferers know that good sleep is priceless.”
We simply can’t overemphasize the importance of comfort. And comfort is subjective to personal taste – what one person finds too soft, another may think is just right. When mattress shopping, you can rely on the mattress expert assisting you to tell you all about quality, support, and price, but only you can say what’s comfortable. If you like the feel of a firm bed, then by all means stick with that. But if you like it in-between, or even soft, then go that direction.
And it’s okay if you don’t know what you like at first. Listen to your body and try different comfort levels. Once you think you have it narrowed down, spend some time on a mattress and see what your body says about it. Do you start to get a pinch in your back? An ache in your hip? Shoulder pain? Arm/hand going to sleep? Any of those can be signs that you need to move on to another selection. If you’re hurting after a few minutes, imagine what hours will do!
Here are some thoughts to keep in mind. An extra firm mattress may not have enough give to contour to the shape of your body. This will cause pressure points, which cause pain and discomfort and will cause you to toss and turn in your sleep or worse, keep you from sleeping at all. An extra soft mattress may have the opposite effect, causing you to sink into a “puddle” and not giving enough support to keep your spine and neck aligned.
Your size has some to do with choosing an appropriate firmness too. A petite individual may be more comfortable on a softer mattress, simply because their lighter frame doesn’t sink as deeply. A heavier person will logically sink deeper into a mattress, causing them to often find beds with firmer cores to be more comfortable. In any case, to sleep comfortably one must find the right balance of support and comfort.
While this is not an article about adjustable bases, this is an appropriate time to mention that you should try one while shopping just to see if it alleviates any of your pain/pressure points. Many customers find that the change in position does their back and body more good than does the new mattress. Learn more about adjustable bases here.
Without knowing what you have....the answer is "Probably". But there are circumstances in which your old one may be okay.
Customers quite commonly want to use their existing box spring, or foundation, with their new mattress. Whether not this is a good idea is based on several things.
-
How old is your box spring?
-
What kind of bed are you putting it on?
-
Do you wish to keep the manufacturer’s warranty?
How old is your box spring? Generally speaking, if your box spring is more than 5 years old, go ahead and replace it with your new mattress. It’s not that they don’t last longer than that – they absolutely do – but your new mattress will last longer if placed on an appropriate foundation that is not only designed to properly support it, but doesn’t have a several-year head start on wearing out.
What kind of bed are you putting it on? Most traditional beds (by “traditional”, we mean headboard, footboard, side rails, and 3-5 slats running across) require a foundation to support the mattress to keep it from sagging into the spaces. However, if you have a platform bed with either a solid surface or a slat system that is very close together (we recommend less than 2” space between slats”, you may put the mattress directly on the bed with no foundation needed. Additionally, mattresses that are compatible with adjustable bases may use that as a foundation without voiding the mattress warranty.
Do you wish to keep the manufacturer’s warranty? For a number of reasons, many manufacturers do not honor their warranty if a mattress is purchased separately and used on an older foundation. While your old foundation may be just fine, they have no way of knowing whether you’re putting your brand new mattress on a new-ish foundation that’s just fine, or grandma’s 60-year old hand-me-down box spring. Understandably, to guarantee their mattress against defects they want to know it was put on a foundation that was designed for and purchased with it.
If warranty is not a concern and you’d prefer to save the money, check your current foundation for any structural defects, broken pieces, or squeaking. Press firmly on each corner to see if it has any give. If the surface is flat with no dips, and no defects are present, it may be okay to use it with your new mattress.
You might also consider the fact that your bedding is a haven for dust mites and allergens. If you are prone to allergies, or if the thought of microscopic things crawling around in your bedding gives you the creeps, you might sleep more comfortably knowing the old stuff is gone.
-